Martha’s Pick

Napoli’s Italian Restaurant
157 W Broadway, Council Bluffs
Fare: Italian
Cost: $80 for three drinks three apps, two meals and one dessert
Reservations: We didn’t need them for our Tuesday visit, but we noticed several big parties come through. If visiting on a weekend, reservations are recommended.

Greetings, Eaters and Readers!

We know we’ve been dragging you with us all over the map for the last few posts – and we wanted to be sure the year ended back in our regular viewing area … and Council Bluffs was as close as we got. Having moved to CB this past year, I find myself trying in earnest to keep an eye on the food and restaurant scene in my new city. So when Napoli’s Italian Restaurant opened up on Broadway’s 100 Block (in the former Lincoln’s Pub/Dixie Quicks space), it caught my eye.

Having opened sometime late summer/early fall of this year, I saw a steady smattering of mixed reviews and experiences across multiple Facebook groups. When it was my turn to pick our December adventure, I figured it was our turn to check it out and see what the buzz – good or bad – was all about.

Garlic Knots (Complimentary) | Dipping Oil ($3)

If you were ever lucky enough to have tried Lo Sole Mio when they were still around, you probably enjoyed their complimentary dipping oil for their table bread, made right in front of you. The server would pour olive oil onto a small plate, top it with pepper, roasted garlic and fresh parmesan. It was heavenly.

Noticing the menu didn’t list bread with the dipping oil, Jac asked our waitress if we’re meant to order one of the breads on the appetizer list. But she informed us we’d be getting complimentary garlic knots. Perfect – let’s get it. The garlic knots came out soft and hot with a touch of garlic flavor. They could have used more garlic if you ask Jac, but they were still very pleasing dipped in the oil and other (upcoming) appetizer dips.

The oil was packed with tons of different Italian seasonings, which were good. The only problem, Jaclyn thought, was too much oil. So when your bread took a dip, it would grab some seasonings but then fall back into the bowl once you resurfaced. We think a slight tweak of switching from bowl to plate would make all the difference. While good enough, we think you can skip this one and enjoy the bread on its own.

Spinach & Artichoke Dip ($11.95) | Cheese Sticks ($7.95)

During our drive over to Napoli’s, Jaclyn and I rambled through the list of Omaha’s beloved Italian restaurants – or a lack thereof. Now that places like Lo Sole Mio and Malara’s have closed, we wondered which spots had or would move into ‘beloved’ status. Could Napoli’s place itself in that category?

Admittedly, when we ordered the cheese sticks, a small part of me hoped they would be as delicious as Malara’s homemade version. They were not. In fact, I’d almost place a bet that these are the same cheese sticks you can get at Arby’s. And by that I mean – save yourself $8 if you visit Napoli’s.

Part of us also kind of knew and anticipated that the cheese sticks wouldn’t be like Malara’s, so we ordered the spinach and artichoke dip, too. And while the dip itself was warm and creamy and flavorful, the tortilla chips were incredibly salty, out of place and honestly – just too much of a distraction. We wanted crunchy bits of bread, thick bagel chips or artisan crackers. And for $12, we’d expect a better dip vehicle.

Manicotti ($14.95) – Pasta sheets, ricotta, parmesan and mozzarella baked in marinara sauce and topped with mozzarella cheese

Jac was eyeballing both the penne alla vodka and manicotti, ultimately choosing the latter because it’s harder to make at home. Her first bite in, she wasn’t expecting a long string of cheese refusing to break as she pulled her fork away. Was it just the mozzarella on the top? Thinking so, she pushed the solid glob away from her manicotti. Trying again, she was met with the same stringy bite.

Now, she knows what you’re thinking. Jaclyn, are you really about to complain about cheese? Yes … BUT – it’s only because she was expecting one thing and met another.

In all her manicotti eating past, Jac doesn’t remember it being stuffed with mozzarella. She has fond memories of ricotta and parmesan. A quick internet search is telling her she’s wrong. Have other restaurants done minimal mozzarella and Napoli’s went all in?

With no other explanation to go by, Jac decided she prefers a bite filled with softer cheeses. The mozzarella really overpowered the other flavors she was hoping to taste and she ended up only eating a few bites.

Tour of Italy ($21.95) – Chicken parmesan, fettuccine alfredo, lasagna

Also on the drive over, I confessed that I didn’t know if I should get a dish I’m familiar with to compare (chicken fettuccine alfredo) or should I get something like a “tour” plate so that I can sample as many dishes as possible and really add some substance to our review?

When it came time to decide, I saw that one entrée item would cost me $18.95, and the Tour of Italy – which included fettuccine alfredo – was $21.95. It seemed like a no brainer to get the Tour for only three more dollars. I know now that was a mistake.

I wish I had gotten just one plate of something I know and (usually) love to compare it and enjoy it fully. Not only was the fettuccine alfredo my favorite from the Tour, the chicken parm and lasagna ended up being just okay.

The whole plate came out piping hot and fresh – of which I am always a fan. And even if they weren’t the highlight of the plate for me, I thought the sauce and flavors of the chicken parm and lasagna were good. And though it pains me to say it, Jaclyn and I both agreed that our main courses were almost too buried in cheese and that a heaping, distracting pile of melted cheese does not an authentic Italian dish make. Sometimes the cheese is just hiding the stuff we really want to taste and experience – and it kind of felt like that was the case for us during our visit.

If I go back to Napoli’s, I’ll hit my own personal expectations reset button and just order the chicken fettuccine alfredo and see how that treats me.

Limoncello ($6)

We were both so full that we only had room in our bellies for one shared dessert. And while I wouldn’t normally gravitate towards lemon, I was reminded just how delightful and refreshing it can be.

The layers of lemony cake and custard were both creamy and zesty. The flavor had just the right amount of zing and sweet. The texture reminded us of our beloved tres leches cake – moist and rich. If we can give Napoli’s a redeeming menu item, it was this very good slice of limoncello.

Final Bites

In the end, I think our experience tracks with the rest of the reviews and comments I’ve seen regarding Napoli’s – be it in the Omaha Food Lovers group, Council Bluffs groups or Yelp and Google. There are some delicious ‘hits’, and there are some underwhelming ‘misses’.

During our visit, we felt like the service was great, the portions and prices seemed balanced, the food came out well-timed, hot and fresh – and the atmosphere and ambiance of the space works well. The restaurant was also at near capacity, including a holiday party we could see in the back (party?) room/area. It was clear to see that Napoli’s is enjoying its new buzz and busy-season, and also that Council Bluffians are eager and happy to have an option like Napoli’s in town.

Ultimately, after a few days reflection, Jaclyn and I both felt like a fork sideways was most accurate for our overall experience. However, I have a few friends in mind that, when they’re in town, I’ll suggest Napoli’s for a meal and I’ll be eager to compare another experience and see how Napoli’s continues to grow and stretch its legs as the new kid on the (100) block.

Cheers!
The Good Bite Gals

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