Martha’s Pick:

Jerico’s
11732 W Dodge Rd.
Fare: Steakhouse
Cost: $115 for two drink, two appetizers and two meals
Reservations: Recommended

Greetings, Eaters and Readers!

Long as I have lived in or around Omaha, you might think I have a good number of steakhouse experiences under my belt. You would be mistaken. And I don’t really know why that is. When I had coastal-living coworkers come to town in the past, they would usually say, “Make sure we can get a good steak while I’m there!” I suppose it was a “when in Rome-aha” thing? But we never went to THEE Omaha steakhouses – the ones that have been around for 40, 50, 60+ years. 

With a long list of traditional and modern options, saying “Omaha steakhouse” can bring a dozen different ideas to mind for a lot of people: J. Gilbert’s, Gorat’s, Mahogany, Sullivan’s, Cascio’s, Brother Sebastian’s, 801 Chop House, The Drover and many, many more. You’re thinking of your personal favorite that I didn’t say, aren’t you? Case in point.

So, when it was my turn to pick our monthly dinner spot, I set out to check a steakhouse off my personal list. As you can see, the options were plenty – but I also wanted to choose a wallet-friendly place because…well…a $250+ evening at Mahogany’s isn’t your casual blog research, is it? 

Jerico’s popped up during my search – as did their seemingly more affordable prices. Subjective affordability at least – if I am to put any stock into the dollar sign scale next to each restaurant. After checking out their menu and website, I realized the only thing I knew about Jerico’s was that I had seen its sign countless times driving on Dodge. The website boasts they haven’t changed much since 1978 – and that hooked me. Almost 50 years slinging steaks to Omahans? They must be doing something right. So I picked Jaclyn up and we headed back in time to see how Jerico’s measures up.

Granny Appletini ($9)

For no other reason than it’s fun to say, I ordered a Granny Appletini. Crisp and easy to drink, the server BULLIED me into having another as I enjoyed my main course. (Just kidding. There was no bullying. I buckled like a belt when she whizzed past and asked if I wanted another.) All that to say – if any of the pricing/final bill makes you think you’ll pass on Jerico’s – I could have saved myself $20 and still thoroughly enjoyed my evening. 

Grilled Shrimp Wrapped in Bacon ($13)

If you’re a long-time reader, you know neither Jaclyn nor I gravitate toward seafood. My one exception was this delicious bacon-wrapped, jumbo shrimp I had once upon a time at Pappa Deaux’s in Houston. So, when I saw a bacon-wrapped shrimp appetizer on Jerico’s menu, I knew I had to try it. Paired with a mild barbecue sauce, I loved this starter. They came out of the kitchen very hot and their flavor was nothing short of scrumptious. Lucky for me, Jaclyn couldn’t be convinced to try one, so I had the whole plate to myself. 

Bruchetta ($5)

Having peeped the Yelp photos beforehand, Jac saw the Bruschetta looked like two tomato slices and a piece of deli-style cheese – and no balsamic – melted on a slice of bread. So, not really Bruschetta. She’d written it off until she saw the $5 price.

“Well, alright, I’ll give it a go,” she said. And to her joyful surprise, what arrived was nothing like she’d seen on Yelp. As you can see in the photo, it was the traditional Bruschetta – balsamic and all. Phew!

Fortunately for Jaclyn, I don’t like chopped tomatoes. I blinked and she’d devoured all five slices, claiming the savory tomatoes, cheese and garlic paired with sweet balsamic glaze atop crunchy bread was one of her favorite apps she’s had in a while.

Filet Mignon with Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($50)

Here’s what you should know right off the bat about Jerico’s: Their menu is focused. You’re not going to get lost trying to decide between a multitude of burgers and wraps and entrée salads and fried chicken. It seems to us, you come here knowing you’re going to get your favorite cut of meat or seafood. Known for their prime rib, they also offer steaks, chops, quail, chicken breasts, shrimp, salmon and cod filet. 

The only thing on the menu that almost deterred me from my steak-seeking mission was the chicken cordon bleu. But I stayed the course and ordered the 9 oz. filet mignon. I enjoy steak, but I have always struggled with the cuts which distract me with the fatty gristle. Honestly, I’m shocked my meat department/butcher-working father can stand eating steak within a mile of me. I ordered the filet because I knew I could eat it without the hassle.

Partnered with a flavorful helping of garlic mashed potatoes, my filet was excellent. It was pretty to look at and even better to eat. I ordered it medium and it was a perfect blend of what I wanted to experience: juicy bites with yummy seer marks on the outside and the right color and texture on the inside. I loved every forkful.

Side Prime Rib Chili

I had the option of soup or salad with my meal. And after hearing the soup options – vegetable something (I forget because it didn’t sound good) or the house prime rib chili – Jaclyn promptly hijacked my thoughts and said, “Ooo get that! The pictures looked good on Yelp.”

I obliged even though it wouldn’t be my first choice. Picking around the beans (they’re not my thing), I had a few bites of the meat. It was alright – just tasted like your standard chili. Jac tried a bite – and only one bite – saying it was too spicy for her. It wasn’t. But she ranks jalapeños at a level 8 or 9 while most of us put them at a 2 or 3, so take that for what you will.

I confessed to our server neither of us were going to eat it and asked if I could order a side salad instead. I really just wanted a cold palate cleanser in between the hot dishes. The salad was nothing fancy, but did the trick.

French Dip Sandwich ($16)

If Jaclyn’s being totally honest, she let the price drive her decision to get the French Dip Sandwich. And after the first dip ‘n bite, she’s glad she took that chance, as it was the best French dip she’s ever had. And I think I must agree. At the very least, it ranks pretty high on my list of the many versions I’ve tried.

The tender, flavorful beef sat between what tasted like two slices of garlic bread. What a game changer that was. And dipped in the au jus – just wow all around. I definitely had food envy after trying a bite.

Final Bites

Trying to sum up our feelings about our Jerico’s experience – I asked Jaclyn how she thinks it fits into the greater Omaha steakhouse conversation. Best we could come up with were two schools of thought: 

1.     What makes a good steak is so varied and subjective that (we think) once people find their favorite steak, they’re going to go back to where they had it AND recommend that place to anyone who asks. To this point, Jaclyn’s favorite steak can be found at The Drover because they marinate and flavor their steak as though they made it specifically for her. And

2.     Jerico’s doesn’t seem to fall easily into a category. It doesn’t get listed when people rattle off old-time, classic steakhouses nor does it get listed when people are seeking out something more modern, trendy and inventive. 

But there’s a reason Jerico’s is approaching its 50^th anniversary. We think the location both works against it AND for it. Most people aren’t building a fun night out with options near 114^th and Dodge. And if someone is in town for a concert or event, they’re rarely venturing that far west. But we think the long-time locals – and the delicious, well executed menu – is what keeps everything going for Jerico’s. 

I might have to convince some people to add it to their steakhouse list, but we both thoroughly enjoyed this delicious discovery under the Dodge expressway. Since we left, I’ve been thinking about how much I enjoyed my entire meal and how eager I am to get back and enjoy the French dip all to myself. 

We strongly encourage our readers and (steak) eaters to take the trip out west (and back in time) to check out Jerico’s. 

Cheers!
The Good Bite Gals

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